Monday, January 27, 2014

Asulkan Valley- Rogers Pass, BC

I have been known to squeeze a lot of adventure out of small chunks of time and I will have to admit that Gaelen and I nailed this trip! The timing and the conditions were impeccable. We booked the Asulkan cabin on Tuesday, got out of work at 7 p.m. Wednesday, ate breakfast in Golden, BC on Thursday and set off into the mountains before 10 a.m.

A nice sight...
The Asulkan Cabin is Plush! It kind of pricey by American standards, but the fees are well worth the experience of spending a night on these glaciers. The cabin has everything that you need minus a sleeping bag and food. The entire cabin is run on propane so you can light a fire by turning a dial. It sleeps 10 comfortably.
Ski in...Ski out to Youngs Peak
We climbed the 3,000 and 9 K in just two hours and were surprised to be staring at the summit of Youngs Peak at PB&J o'clock. We planned on climbing Youngs and skiing the 7 steps of Paradise the following day, but the skies were clear and the snow was fresh, a 3 inch dusting upon arrival. We had the daylight and the energy to push for the summit.
Arriving at the Cabin before noon, the sun was shining and our sights were set on the 7 Steps to Paradise
It is a 2,400 foot climb from the back door of the Asulkan to the summit cone of Youngs. A casual stroll amongst some of the most impressive peaks in North America. A dream come true, honestly. There were no open crevasses on the glacier. We didn't bring harnesses or a rope.
Impressive Peaks and inversion below. The cabin is below also in the middle of the picture.
We managed to skin up the headwall, which was a bit intimidating, but the conditions felt stable. Plus some sense of security of a tracked in skinner and 8 lines down. There are skinners everywhere on Rogers Pass. In this country the beer and gas are expensive, but the skinners are free. After a day pass and wilderness permit at the Discovery center.
Looking towards Sir Donald from the Summit cone of Youngs Peak
From the top of Youngs you have amazing views of Icillewat Glacier to the south and a feature called Witch Tower. To the north you can spot Rogers and the Swiss Peaks. You also have the option to ski is an impressive couloir that will make any Skier Boy drool called Forever Young. We chose to ski the straight forward descent off the North side known as the 7 Steps of Paradise which is claimed by Davenport as a 50 classic descents of North AMerica in his new book w/ co-authors.
2 skinners below the summit

Gae dropping in on her first "50 classic descents"

G ripping a lower step= really fun

Welcome to Paradise

Day one... So whats next?
The run was Amazing! We skied 3,500 feet of a smooth type of velvet, mostly surface hoar. The Headwall was glorious and the steps to follow kept the legs turning and earning for more. The skiing felt effortless and before we knew it we were 1,500 feet below the Cabin. We got back on the skinner up the Tree Triangle and were at the cabin in 40 minutes.
Looking back up at the Headwall of Youngs Peak
The next morning we packed up, said good bye to new friends and skied a mellow 1,800 foot run below the cabin to the base of the Triangle Moraine and met the skinner up the Saphire Glacier. Again this glacier did not have any open crevasses so we carried on unroped
Skinning up the Saphire col with Youngs Peak and the 7 Steps in the background. Follow the shade/ sun line.
The weather was spectacular once again and the sun hitting the eastern slope did not effect the snow conditions. We moved quickly up the slope and paused just to look around and appreciate the day and soak in where life has brought us. For me, in the winter, it doesn't get any better than this.
Up to the Cleaver on the Saphire 
We climbed another 3,200 feet to the Saphire col, checked out the Saphire hut up there. Which is bare bones, a structure with a bunk that sleeps 4, no stove. We ate lunch, watched other skiers on various slopes and ridges then decided it was time to ski ourselves. We descended the 20 degree slopes of the Saphire Glacier and down the Triangle Moraine for a 4,000 foot run to the valley floor.
Plenty of wiggle room here. 

Wiggles for Days... Sir Donald in the background
Canada, anyone?

-Frerk

Friday, January 24, 2014

Running Rabbit Traverse


       A popular traverse in Glacier National Park is the Running Rabbit Traverse.  It is located down past Essex on highway two, following the middle fork of the flathead river.  About an hour and twenty minute drive from Whitefish, MT.   After the road bends east towards East Glacier look for a left turn towards the fielding patrol cabin, right after the Snowslip cafe.  On the southern boundary of the park, the wind blows a little harder, and the snowpack a little shallower.  The good thing is the starting elevation which is around 4,400 feet  With our last rain event affecting elevations up to 5,000 ft, this was a good time to start a little higher.  The Marias pass area got lucky and only saw graupel falling at 4,000 ft.  The traverse is traditionally begun with the climb up to sub-shields, 6,996 then unto Mt Shields 7,131, Snowslip Mt. 7290, and finishing with Running Rabbit 7,674.  Nice mellow ridge climbing is what this traverse is about, with the exception of a short boot pack to the summit of Snowslip.  Staying up high and enjoying the views makes this pretty special on a clear day.  Many different ski options are available of every mountain on the traverse.  One could climb around 4,000 and just ridge traverse all the mountains easily, or drop some north facing bowls and rack up the vertical.  We choose southern and western slopes because they lined up more with our goal of getting back on the ridge, and it was January- thaw- corn harvesting condition.  The other logistics are the car drop off or the hitch hike at the end.  We choose the hitch hike. Getting down in daylight made it an easy pickup.  Also a good opportunity to heckle your friend hitching,  it only tacked on extra hour.  Depending what slope you ski off Running Rabbit would determine where you would want to leave a car.
     Last thursday looked like a clear day so Jake and I set our alarms and planned on doing the Running Rabbit traverse.  Trimming some weight out of our packs and making our sandwiches the night before.  Our friend Sam met at our house around 5:00 and we were off towards the park.  After coffee, an hour of driving, talking about snowpack, discussing route options, looking at my app Topo Maps which I love and endure criticism for, more coffee, we set off for sub-shields around 6:45 am.  We popped up over the railroad tracks and started the climb towards sub-shields among a beautiful alpine glow morning.  
                                      
Every time it's worth it.  The sun rises on Sheep Mountain.

                                      
Jake and Sam climb towards sub-Shields. 


About to drop in off Mt Shields, Snowslip Mt. in the background.  We took a short 500 foot shot down sub- shields to continue the ridge up to Shields.  The snow was crispy on top, shallow and faceted on the ridge, which made me worry about how good the ski conditions were going to be.  As soon as we dropped off the summit of Mt. Shields on the south face it was like spring corn skied a little bit to early in the morning, and just got better all the way down.


Jake noticing the snow improvement towards the bottom of South face of Mt. Shields.


A quick boot pack up Snowslip.



These  majestic goats got scared off by us and traversed onto the North Face of Snowslip. Which is mostly cliffs and appears to be un-skiable.


Then there's this guy..always out on a sunny day the formidable Mt. St Nick


The turns down the Southwest face of Snowslip were some of the best of the tour.  Between Running Rabbit and Snowslip is a large bowl that has many ski descents, one could spend a whole day up there skiing.  It was almost noon when we were down there.  It gave us the old sun anxiety so we busted up to the ridge real quick.


The Buffalo content, lumbers up the mellow ridge up to Running Rabbit.  Sam is almost on the summit in the background.


Sam starting the descent to the road off Running Rabbit.  Two large avalanche paths come off RR western face, one of them is snow slide gulch and it comes down to the road near the goat lick parking area.  These slides have the classic funnel shape, and different micro aspects and ridges within the paths.  We skied with caution  This side is guaranteed to give your money back with a nice 3,000 ft shot to the road.  Getting plenty of sun, we sussed a ridge that comes off the summit and stays out of paths and trends left.    We enjoyed ridge skiing in creamy snow while watching our roller balls trickle into the gulch. Then only 500 ft. of log jamming jackie tree horn style and we were at the road at 2:15 pm. We approximated around 7,000 vert skied, 8 ish miles, in about 7 1/2 hrs



Some parting shots, this is a tour I did later on this week with my neighbor Chris.  Here He is traversing the north face of Nyack Peak, a stimulating traverse.  


This is the South bowl that we skied off the summit of Nyack.  We then climbed back up to ski a north facing shot into Rescue Creek, bullet proof from rain, winds and sun for 4 grand.  Oh well, dig that east coast edging.  Praying for snow once again. -SB






Saturday, January 18, 2014

Montana Life

         Ok so it's mid January, I know some you have skied.  Maybe meadow skipping, cross country skiing with new babies, skipping over rocks in the Wastach,  boot packing up dirt with tears in your eyes in California. I'm truly sorry CA.  Even Jake is tired of seeing his rock climbing trip to Blodgett Canyon as the last trip report, so here we go  In my new home northwest Montana we've been skiing.  We were lucky enough to have some steady snow through December and into January.  With consistent small storms and occasional bigger dumps the snowpack has been good.   So I thought I would get down to showing some pictures of some tours we've done to keep the stoke alive. With Canada only an hour to our north it's hard to tell the difference sometimes, let's see if you can.  It snowed many different forms over the last two months from blower powder, to smooth graupel, and heavy cream.  Currently we are in a high pressure so it's been great for getting out and skiing out in the peaks.  Versatile snow off the summits but mostly consisting of what I like to call the "velvet".
         I've been fortunate enough to have some time off in the beginning of the season and some good ole Boyz and Galz to go skiing with.   We have mainly been skiing the Great Bear Range which is accessed down the middle fork of the Flathead River.  We just refer to it has the "Middle Fork".  The Swan Mountain Range which is on the east side of the Flathead valley got some early dumps and the snowpack has been deep. Were still waiting for Ovando to get good.  Glacier National Park's southern end around Marias pass has also been treating us well, with a little less snow but still great skiing.  We had several concerning layers one being a rain crust from November, but as the snow piled up they became more stubborn to activate in tests.  The only downside is it's about an hour drive to get to any of the good backcountry spots.  Getting up early and long approaches and that I'm getting used too.

That's the meatier part of the Middle Fork including the highest in the range Great Northern

New friends and new mountains heading up Stanton Peak, GNP.  We skied the south face which is the ridge on the right skyline.

Jay on his  college winter break collecting data for his thesis...
more like two week ski bender.

Katy surfing the cream dream on Java Peak.


Descending down a south chute towards stanton lake.


The jack rabbit finds a hole skiing into Rescue Creek.

Chris getting it good Spider bowl, Swan Range.




Descending the Backstrap off Elk Mountain.



Gaelen soaking in the sunshine on Essex mountain.



The massive Nyack mountain and Great Northern in the background.



The Ambassador Buf on a deep day in Marion lake.




Thanks to our sponsors, the triple decker PBJ. 
More photo's coming this week.


                               

              







Tuesday, January 7, 2014

Two Years On

January 2012

I was talking to Adam last summer and he was telling me how excited to be turning 30. Based on how much he accomplished if was tough to believe that he was only 30. When I met Adam 9 years ago, I had no idea how old he was. Based on his maturity, experiences, poise, and educational level, I would have been shocked to find out he was only 21.

Adam didn’t spend a lot of time resting on his laurels. He rarely talked about his accomplishments. This weekend I’m sure we’ll all find out something incredible that Adam did that you didn’t know about. When I met Adam, he was an accomplished snowboard racer, back‐country skier, climbed extensively in Colorado, owned a motor home, had a degree from Western State, was enrolled in a graduate program at the University of Utah, and had completed the Grand Traverse race between Crested Butte and Aspen multiple times.  As we all know he was an excellent teleskier. Powerful and smooth at the same time; and just as comfortable sending a big face as ripping tight trees, or noodling some low angle love. To me it was incomprehensible that someone could accomplish so much in their early 20’s.

This furious pace of accomplishment showed no signs of slowing. Throughout his 20’s he explored Utah extensively. I showed him what I knew of the Wasatch and we struck out all over the state exploring the Oqirhhs, Tushars, Stansburys, Abajos, and Henrys together. That first winter I knew Adam he decided he wanted to summit Kings Peak. So on one of his rare free days he made a solo winter ascent in a day. He summited and skied Rainer and other PNW volcanoes climbed the Grand. He spent time in the Alps, biked the Pacific Coast, led trad climbs, and was completely immersed in river running. Given his young age, his climbing resume is truly impressive.

But what is more remarkable is at the same time Adam developed an equally impressive professional resume:

  • He graduated from Western State

  • Graduate degree from the University of Utah

  • Top bucket o’ chili salesman at Alf’s

  • Created an innovative “hours for beer” compensation package at Joanie’s

  • Work with at risk youth in Monticello

  • Rapid advancement at the Gateway Academy to the point of developing curricula being making hiring decisions.
Each resume individually is impressive but taken together it is almost unfathomable. Either would lead you to believe you were dealing with a no‐nonsense, seriously driven individual who might not be very fun to hang around with. Nothing could be further from the truth. Adam did it all with apparent ease. And there was quite the mischievous streak that endeared him to those who knew him.

One of my first memories of Adam is him telling me that the part‐time semi‐retired cash register lady at Alf’s had been arrested in 1998 selling drugs at a Phish concert in Providence, Rhode Island. He had just spent a few days working closely with this woman on the drink line and had so many details about the incident that everyone he told believed that this 60 something year old grandmother had been selling glass on Phish tour. Of course none of it was true.

At Alf’s we were encouraged to make creative name tags. Adam had Yvergenhauf and he wore this name with pride every day. Whenever a customer would ask the nature of that name, he would tell them that his parents met while they were PhD students studying Norse mythology and Yvergenhauf was the Norse God of something or other. They were always very impressed.

After time I thought I could spot his BS from a mile away. But he had so many crazy real storiest hat it was impossible to tell the difference. Was his roommate really named Sterling Silver? Did that 8‐year cow‐poke really point a gun at him? Did his brother actually ending becoming friends with Martin, a guy who work at Alf’s for a couple of weeks that looked exactly like Sage? Did he really get a +1 invite to a private Sundance party and successfully change it to a +10? Did he really forge an alliance with the SLC hipsters?

Last spring I got a call from Adam, he claimed to be driving back from Nevada by himself. Supposedly he and couple other Skier Boyz had spent a few days in the Ruby Mountains shooting guns and skiing. They got to ski Terminal Cancer in chest deep snow. When it was time to head back to Utah, they decided to hop a freight train back to SLC, but Adam drew the short straw and had to shuttle the car back. The story was packed with plenty of details and names. It seemed plausible. Was this true? Was it made up? I’ve talked to all involved and they swear it really happened but I wouldn’t be surprised if this was an elaborate hoax set up for Adam’s entertainment.

Adam had an enthusiasm that was boundless. Whatever he was doing, he was doing it 100%. And that was contagious. This whole Skier Boyz thing started as a joke. It was just 3 guys with the same days off making some turns. Adam was new to Alta and he would work through his lunch so he could get off early and we’d take some laps up in Grizzly / Silver / Days area. And it wasn’t long before he asked if he could be in the group and since it was more of a joke than anything, I said sure. Well, it was that moment that Skier Boyz stopped becoming a joke. People got titles and responsibilities. Adam became highly involved in recruitment and selection. Somehow he weaseled his way into the OR show and was giving pitches to outdoor magazines. He would bring back business cards of all the contacts he made trying to promote the group.  Then the t‐shirts showed up, hats, flannels, stickers, panties, the internet. Adam took a 1‐season joke and turned it into tight knit group of close friends that share the same passion that’s going on 10 years. Like I said many times, I can never be 100% sure if Adam is serious or joking, but on several occasions he told me:

  • Skier Boyz is the best thing that has ever happened to me

  • Thank you for giving me a social identity
Well, I should be the one thanking Adam. I’m not sure what this Skier Boyz thing is, but it a wonderful group of people that exists only because of Adam. So thank you, Adam for giving me a social identity, whatever the hell that means.

Since January we all have made turns for Adam, but this focuses only on one facet of his life, and not even the most important one. There wouldn’t be such a large and diverse group of people here if Adam’s best attribute was his incredibly beautiful tele turn. So I’m sure Adam appreciates you making turns for him, but there are so many other things I think Adam would appreciate even more:

- Take time to mentor someone for Adam.
 
- Sacrifice your time to make someone else’s day better for Adam.
 
- Be excited for other people’s accomplishments for Adam.
 
- Call a friend for Adam.
 
- Motivate some friends for Adam.
 
- Make a difference at your job for Adam.
 
- Be a better friend for Adam.
 
- Try something new for Adam.
 
- Give 100% everyday for Adam.
 
- Laugh for Adam.
 
- Live for Adam.
 
And sure, go ahead and float that river, summit that peak, slay that face, send that wall,
grease that singletrack, and dive the dumpster for Adam.

Saturday, November 16, 2013

Bitterroot Mts.- Blodgett Canyon, Shoshone Spire 5.9

Standing on top of Shoshone Spire,
looking at the SW Arete of Nez Perce
During the soggy month of September in Whitefish, MT Gaelen and I were contemplating our relocation to the North. We hadn't climbed for two weeks and it was looking like the weather was going to skip the Fall season and go right into Winter. I love Winter, but not if I don't get to enjoy the best season for rock climbing, usually, first. Luckily for us Fall did show up and we got back on the rocks as much as possible knowing that each day could be our last.

The highlight that month was climbing in the Bitterrotts, south of Missoula. In three days we climbed Mill Creek, Kotenai Canyon and Blodgett Canyon. Blodgett is amazing! The access to longer climbs is awesome. Once at the trailhead 1000 foot spires rise vertically on the north side of the canyon, guaranteeing Southern exposure early and late season. You can hike from one mile to four miles to get to the base of the Drip Buttress, The Prow, Nez Perce, Shoshone Spire and Flathead Buttress.

I climbed Nez Perce with Stefan back in July and we had an eventful day on the SW Arete Route. It took us an unexpected 16 hours to climb from car to car. We were unsure if we were on route for most of the climb and the technical difficulty surpassed its given grade. The only beta we had was the wise description of following the "elegant" Arete. I don't consider loose block stacks very elegant, but the satisfaction of the adventure surely was.

For my second route in Blodgett I wanted to climb some solid rock to reassure me that this place is as Rad as it looks. In late October Gaelen and I climbed the S Face of Shoshone Spire, a 6 pitch route at the grade of 5.9, we felt. It proved to be the most classic route we have done thus far in our new State. Every pitch was spectacular and had lots of hand jams and bomber pro.

The winter has now settled in and we have been skiing for over a week now so its time to enjoy where I am and what I have.



First pitch of Shoshone Spire- very nice 180 foot pitch

First light hike into Blogett Canyon. Its a special place.

Putting in the boot pack to cross Blogett Canyon

The S face of Shoshone Spire. There are actually 2 pitches below the obvious clean face
 and an ice climb that forms in the shadowed area in winter.

This might be the crux of the route at 5.9.
A fun chimney.

The upper headwall was Fun.
2 pitches from the top. Bummer.

It was 70 degrees and sunny on this fine day at the end of October

Gae looking down at the line of fools who want some Shoshone niceness.
Not many days left like this in the season. 

The climbing was so good to the very top.
Exciting and aesthetic climbing.
Stonehill- Eureka, MT
lots of rocks

Roadside attraction above Lake Kook