Monday, June 14, 2010

Cutting Baby Teeth

Our trip to the Neacolas started with a few days of weather delays, a theme that would continue to play out throughout the trip. We had four days (ish) of good weather in our nine days on the glacier. Our first day was a divide and conquer mission to check different aspects for stability. The results were pockets of instability caused by a persisting gropple layer of inconsistent thickness. That evening the weather rolled in and our little camp became the center of our universe. It was like being on house arrest.

Three days later a little bit of improvement in the visibility inspired a short tour to ski a short shot low on the slope to the west of camp. Then things opened up. The clouds lifted and we found ourselves staring across the glacier at one of our objectives, the Teeth. The smaller of the two teeth looked better than ever and we decided to push up towards it at least enough to get a feel for the conditions over there even with our late afternoon start it proved to be a good idea. The sky went completely blue and it was a beautiful tour that would lay the groundwork for our ascent of the peak the next day. A descent in deep heavy snow in a lower angle couloir brought us back to the glacier and back on our track it was an easy glide back to camp. The next morning we got and early start and headed up our track breaking trail past where we had turned around the day before and pushing up onto a massive bench on the shoulder of this mountain. The windless, nearly cloudless day made for perfect conditions and so up we went choosing to head up the South East rib. Steep skinning turned into even steeper bootpacking until we reached the shoulder before the last ramp to the summit. The curving aspect that we came up was like the front of a sharks fin and from the shoulder we could look over the back of the fin, a vertical, precipitous drop of almost 1000 feet.

The climb to the summit was easy and straightforward. From the top we took a few pictures and a few moments to reflect on our accomplishment. Looking north and east we saw the looming monument that is the larger of the two teeth. Access to the larger objective was definitely not easiest from our vantage. We concluded that it would be better to go further up the glacier before even beginning to climb. All that was just a brief thought in the reflective celebration of our first Alaskan first ascent and looking to the first descent that was to follow. From the summit we skied down the face visible from the bench from which we had begun our climb on the rib. Descent snow and the rush of isolation and the spirit of pioneering a route both up and down that had never been done before was incredible.

With our first successful Alaskan objective completed we were ready for the day that followed, the solid summit attempt and first descent of “Superior In The Sky".


Headed up our path from the day before.




Uncle Keith's switchback clinic.



Serac fall triggered slides across the glacier the day before the summit.



Approaching the bench.



Keith and Emily at the bench.



On belay! Things get steep.



Looking back on the path to victory.



Exposure exposed.



The final ramp to the summit.



The big tooth in the backgroud. Tom and Steph on the summit of the Baby Tooth.



Getting ready to drop in.



Turns from the top as seen from the bench.


Friday, June 11, 2010

Adventures of Bass

On a typical day, Bass gets after it. Saturday was no different as told Joe Stock:

http://www.stockalpine.com/posts/hanging-valley-chutes.html

Last week I randomly met DB at Peak 3 and he told me an amazing story about a bear encounter he had last year. Alaska Public Radio provides the interview.

http://aprn.org/2009/09/15/summertime-tale-the-tumbling-bear/

Monday, June 7, 2010

Pastoral: June 4

I had big plans for the weekend, big plans. Part I would be a night assault on Patoral (4,764') in the Turnagain area. I was on the road by 5 PM and skinning at 6:30. Not the best start, but the skies went from grey to blue. There was about 30 minutes of bush-whacking on the approach from the Sunburst trailhead. I took careful note of alternative routes for the way back. I felt strong and was moving quickly. Taylor Pass at 8 o'clock and Pastoral was looking good. There was a bit of a downclimb, and then right back to skinning. Shadows had enveloped me, but the goal was well lit. The summit approach looked straight-forward and with a route chosen, off I went.


Pastoral (9 PM)


Looking Down on the Grand Daddy Chute

View off the Back at Spencer Glacier (10 PM)


The snow was nice creamed corn for most of the approach, but the higher elevations gave way to death crust and eventually frozen bullet-pack. The wind was whipping on top, so it was time to descend. Rolling solo in a remote location with crap snow tends to lead to conservative decisions. No skiing like the Boyz tonight.

As I descended the snow improved and I was having a blast. But it was decision time: retrace my route or ski a patch lower.  Retracing my route would have taken me over the creek via a snow bridge and back through the heinous bushwhack.  I decided to take my chances and ski lower.  Reflecting back on it, I choose poorly. Granted I skied quite a bit lower and much closer to the vehicle, but I regretted this decision.

I fought my way through dense alders along the creek and was getting close to the highway.  I expected the creek to cross under the highway and I'd just have a bit of a pavement walk.  I was close and could see the occasional vehicle speed past. But then the creek turned sharply to the left and began to parallel the road.  Shit!

It was clear that I had to cross the creek . There was a spot with the willows were thick and the branches extended over the rushing water. I figured that if I clicked in to the Big Daddies I should be able to walk over the willows and make across nice and dry. Failure. I was up to my waist in cold-ass water and tangled in willow branches. Good call. At least this is over. I'll just release my skis and walk to shore. This was also a bad idea; the skis caught the current and whoosh. Awesome. It took a while but I recovered the skis and made to the road just before midnight. Time for rest and fuel.

-Zhou Yu



Neacola Video

I am giving a presentation to the Mountaineering Club of Alaska so I put together a short video.

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Tincan: May 31

Does Tincan really deserve a post? Really? It's the most skied line at Turnagain. Come off it!

Typically I would agree with that, but this was my 72nd day of backcountry of the season besting my previous high of 71. We've all put big numbers riding chairs, but never have I hiked so much in one season. Well, I'm sure you care more about the skiing than numbers.

Good Afternoon Skiers and Riders
This is your early June snow report for Turnagain Pass. Come on up and send it. It's full on! There is still snow down to the road at the Pass. Our recent strech strech of awesome weather has allowed the snow to cook down and is just about neve. Turnagain is still buried and the snow is fast and very white. And where the hell is everyone? The skiing right now crushes the thin, sketchy snowpack we had up until Turkey day. It's a ghost town up here, but why did all the miner 49er's leave all the goods behind? The lines are all filled in and the skiing and riding is excellent.


Snow Down to Road Level

Tincan Common



Despite the great conditions, I expect to be talking to imaginery birds and singing to myself again this weekend.
- Frank Machin

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Portage to Placer: May 29

Ever since returning from my sussing mission to the Mid-Atlantic region, the weather has been top notch. Rest beckons but the call of the bluebird is too enticing: Tweet! Boot this! Skin that!Tweet, tweet! Get up, sucker, tweet!

"Damn that bird to hell!"

Alright, alright, I'm getting out of bed. I hit the road early for quick schuss in Portage prior to Benderfest '010 down in the Homers. I skied "Portage 1" about 5 years ago and it involved a deep slow water creek. I was pleasently surprised that there is now a bridge over the water. The gully is mostly avi debris, so booting was a breeze. On top of the chute, you are at a triple point: Portage, Placer, and Turnagain. Nice.

Looking up "Portage 1" from that Confounded Bridge


Still Plenty of Snow on Skookum / Carpathian


From the Top of the Chute Looking SE

On previous trips to this spot conditions denied me from ascending the SE. Today was no different. Large glide cracks were overdue for their trip South. Down towards the Placer looks good. Ain't too proud for some low angle love. The snow wsa sublime: 2" of corn on supportable. The snow was fast and white, quite the contrast from Falls Creek the previous day. Nice rollers, some good tree skiing, and then back up to do it again.

Take another lap. Tweet, tweet! Again, again!

But then I heard another friend call out: the greybird

Tweet! Tweet! St. Elias Brew Pub!

"Well, hello, friend, that's a great idea."


Looking Back Towards the Placer Terrain from the Seward Highway

- George Freeth

Directions:
- Drive South on the Seward from Anchorage
- Turn left on the road towards Whittier
- Look for the 1st Chute on the right
- Turn right down the gravel road just past the chute
- I parked at the gate to the RV camp
- The RV owner likes you to check in before you cross their land
- Stay along the right hand perimeter of the RV area and look for the road leading to the gully
- The road crosses the creek and puts you at the snow

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Falls Creek: May 28

DB had been singing the praises of Falls Creek all month. "It's cooler city!" I've been up there the last three weekends!" "I can't believe I've never skied this before!" And on and on. DB has a nose for these things so I decided to give it look.

Tom was in town unexpectedly but lacked ski gear. Well, being part of the Boyz means having more gear than you could ever possibly use. Boots, skins, skis, poles, beacons.... well we can skip the beacons.

Falls Creek is accessed via a small trailhead on the Turnagain Arm just North of Indian. It started steep and dusty and stayed steep and dusty. It wasn't looking good. After about 90 minutes we reached the 1st snow which conveniently happened to be at the bottom of a 2,000' chute. Well, I know this game: boot it, send it. Copy. Booting went quick; Tom seemed overly motivated. Let him go. Great white buffalo.


From the bottom

Looking South down the Seward Highway / Turnagain Arm


Life jackets are recommended for those with rag doll-itis


Addtional options higher in the drainage

The snow was good but getting a bit mushy. Wet surface snow collected and formed streams of "lava" carving out gullies as it trenched out the chute. It picked of some steam and crashed into the rocks in a tight left. Take nothing but pictures....


Tom negiotiating the not-so-cruxy crux
:
Falls Creek is yet another Anchorage gem discovered by ol' Prospector Dave. Many options, many teachers.
- Ratso Rizzo

Friday, May 28, 2010

More Neacola Photos

Mount Chakachamna at the Head of the Glacier
("C" on the map)
It snowed about 3 feet the 1st 48 hours we were there. This made for very unstable conditions especially on North facing aspects. Fortunately East and South set up much better.

In the Snowcave / Kitchen / Bar
Let's see some of those Ruby Mountain shots!
- Ezra Lieberman


Thursday, May 27, 2010

Neacola Photos

It's time to start getting more Neacola photos up in here, up in here. I'll try to get a few up every couple of days.


A 41° skinner: notice how we all spread out and practice safe travel


"Superior in the Sky" Not for me, but Tom & Stefan got it
Check out the bergshrund (10-20') followed by about 8 crevices


The view from the Beaver
The weather forecast looks good up here for the long weekend. I'll be sending it all over South Central AK and fishing for King Salmon betweens beers.
- Colonel Dax

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Mid-Atlantic Update

Just got back from sussing out Maryland. Looks epic. These must be the same mountains they road-tripped to in "The Deer Hunter."





- Nick Chevotarevich

Friday, May 14, 2010

KNEE-B DEEP ON NEEB-O


^Leaving AltA, at 630 am alpenglow was off the charts

Mt. Nebo stands at 11.928, the highest peak in the Wasatch Range. Accessible from Mona, UT, majestic Mt. Nebo is a true gem. You approach via 4×4 road which you drive to the snow line. The climb is big 5-6,000 feet, so what better time to start hiking than 10am. The weather called for cloudy conditions so we were banking on that to aid our ascent and safe ski decent. We got our hands on a truck, with one kicker, it had summer tires. We made it up the steep 4×4 road then got shut down at the first inch of snow. We parked having no idea how far away from Nebo we were. We packed up our gear and expected the worst, potentially a massive approach on a muddy road. We walked for about 10 minutes and realized there was alot of snow on the road at this point. We put our skins on and our hopes blossomed.

^Jake starts skiing up the slide path we stayed next to to gain the upper ridgeline

^grandaddy of slide paths

^epic scenery made a long hike easy

^will split boarding up the never ending wooded ridgeline

We arrived at the base of the slide path we followed to the ridge line. We were in this gully for about 5 minutes then headed for the glade on the side of the path. This path is massive. It went from really hot, to cloudy and chilly. Head down, skinning through the woods, can create an incredible rate of time passage. Before I knew it we could see the top of the slide path where it met the ridge. Here again the sun came out for 2 minutes, and that was enough to send tons of roller balls down on us. We were discussing dropping in and getting out of there and yet again the clouds came in thick and it started to snow.


^the couloirs show themselves, we ended up skiing the left one


^summit ridgeline

We stopped for a snack and to put some layers on, it went from 70 degrees with the sun out to about 25 and snowing. The snow let up, and it looked like it was going to clear. This was amazing because we had clear travels nearly all the way to the summit. We were able to take in the ridiculous surroundings we got ourselves into. I set a traverse across a massive hanging snowfield that I would have never put in if it wasn’t mid may and 8 inches under the new snow was a fat layer of impenetrable hard pack and rocks. This traverse allowed us to gain the summit ridge line.

^view towards mt nebos summit

^the couloir we ended up skiing, skinning by it on the way to the summit i was able to get this photo before it went to white out. We are officially renaming this couloir "hair raiser couloir" the northwest couloirs are too boring.

About 6 hours it took us to summit. Here is where the epic adventure gets insane. Jake and I are on the peak, total whiteout blizzard. I snapped this summit photo, and thought I heard the sound of my water bottle pressurizing. Like a crackling plastic sound. I could also hear the noise coming from my jacket, my backpack, and my ski poles planted in the ground were also making that noise. I pushed them over, and they stopped. I had no idea what it was but wrote it off as being dehydrated and exhausted. This is while Jake is yelling into the whiteout for will who was a few minutes behind. I heard Jake holler “Will get up here, we are on the top”. Will replied, Jake thought he said “I couldn’t see” Jake says something along the lines of “yea none of us can see, get up here” Will yelled again at us ELECTRICITY! Just as Jake turned around and dropped to the ground I felt the air go massively thick, I could have cut the air with my skis, it was even hard to move. Then the skin on the back of my neck felt like someone was picking me up by my neck and we both dove off the peak into the abyss. We had gotten charged for contact, I have read stories of people getting struck by lighning, and if you feel what we felt, it usually ends in a lightning strike. There was no flash, no thunder, no warning. It went from partly sunny to blizzard white out to electrical cloud in less than 5 minutes. We waited a few minutes off the summit, crawled back up and got our gear clicked in and slid down to the thinner, more eastern couloir, and dropped in. At this point the clicking stopped, all three of us got that feeling on our necks moments prior.

We regained composure running off mother natures electricity and our own adrenaline, we dropped in I made a few cautions cuts and let go of a few 8″ deep mini slabs, that disapeared into the void. Then I started skiing and it was heavenly. DEEP cream to blower. Skiing an unreal couloir in whiteout blizzard and its May 13th. We stuck close together so we didn’t lose sight of anyone. As we worked our way down the couloir snow rates were easily 2 inches an hour. One of the slabs we released, caused the chute to clean its self entirely. We could now confidently ski this thing. We skied the super soft debris, or dip to the side and get some turns in the blower. The clouds were lifting. The snow depth in the chute was shocking. We figured 20-30 inches of fresh cream. Never did we hit one patch of questionable snow.




^boyz hide in a safe zone for a break

^will sending

^buffalo sending

^mother nature sending intense snowfall

^buffalo nearing the apron

^boyz conquering something fierce, charged up from mother nature!

We got to the apron, and made endless powder turns all the way to the basin. The apron is massive on this thing. We all looked at each other at the bottom wondering all of that really just happened……. Incredible highs of summiting Mt. Nebo turned to possibly a near death experience, then turned into some of the most divine skiing any of us had ever encountered on any date let alone MAY 13TH. Still feeling mother nature’s charge (even today) we exited out down into the Vermont style slush woods. The whole all of the way back to the road, and the walk back down the road still wondering, did that really just happen?

Majestic Mt. Nebo in beautiful Mona, UT